From Maralnik-1 to Beluha July 2017

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sfagaspb
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From Maralnik-1 to Beluha July 2017

Сообщение sfagaspb » 21.12.2017 17:19

I’m not dealing with hiking narratives writing that often, so, please, be indulgent to my “observation endeavour”☺ I’m going to try to describe our 2-week journey that has been perhaps the hardest and at the same time the most interesting for me of all the trips I’ve ever made.
Well, I guess I should start with an idea. Last (2016th) year I visited the Altai mountains for the first time, discovered an entirely new world for myself, got totally fascinated and fell in love with it immediately (like almost everyone who comes there, I suppose). On coming back I realised that I was already addictive to Altai, totally bound with it, and was immensely burning to return, to pass it once again, but on another route. In order to avoid regular trail to Beluha that is the most popular, I needed to change an approach. So far a trip to Multinskie lakes could become an attractive alternative route, meaning I’d never been there. But just getting to the Multinskie is not complicated at all, and that made me start looking for the direction to go after them. Lucky almost everything can be found on the Internet, so I, found out Nechaev Alexandres’ report on a his attempt to track from the Multinskie to Ak-Kem and Beluha through r. Kujguk, r. Kuragan and Kara-Turek pass with a small group of 6 persons, that had been almost successful. That moment it became absolutely clear where I wanna go. Passes, lakes, untrodden paths, the reserve – and, finally, entrance to Beluha… Just exactly what I wanted! Everything else was just “technical details”. So eventually after half a year of preparations our small group of 7 (6 volunteers + a guide) was ready to go set off☺.
It was my first experience to gather the group, and that definitely made me worry a lot. Especially taking into account I didn't know personally the majority of participants, only through the Internet. But my fears turned out to be useless – all the members proved to be adequate persons, fascinated with mountains and hiking. Special thanks must be given to our guide –Dmitry Lebed, who was urging on and steering us into the right direction. But let’s go step by step☺Day 1st, 15.07.17, Saturday.
Saturday morning we arrived to Barnaul’s airport, where group was gathering (we all came with different flights, Anja and Tosha had arrived a day before to purchase all necessary grocery). Me and Maksim came on the UralAirlines, Anton I. had come an hour before us on S7 flight. On arriving it turned out that our Moscow flight had carried the passengers being late from previous flights, but hadn’t carried passenger’s luggage…. And I would see my backpack the next day the earliest… I was barely able to digest this news… Strangely this situation was quit obvious for Barnauls’ airport, and they even got special drivers, that deliver delayed luggage through the whole region. I was promised my backpack to be delivered to any place I would point (even to Maralnik-1) the next day (if it arrived the next day☺)). As chances of my backpack arriving 700 km away from Barnaul “the next day” seemed immensely slim, we decided not to risk and move toward Gorno-Altaisk to the camping Vicoria-Village, advised by our guide, where to my backpack was supposed to arrive “as soon as possible” as I was promised by a lovely women from luggage-searching department.
All these findings took us long, so we started from Barnaul only at about 10 am. It was a kind of stress for me – adventures on a trip, route not being even started yet took me aback, but everything is done is done for the best, so I was still looking to the bright side and just relaxed☺ On the way we passed by the “Tourist” hotel, where there rest of the group (Anton S, Anja and Nadja B.) were waiting for us with all the grocery, bought in “Lenta” (by the way it could have been bought almost 40% cheaper in “Marija-Ra” as it turned out late on).
Along the way I contacted reserve’s gamekeeper Mr. Kozlov, organizing grocery delivery to reserve’s cordon for us, reserve’s assistant Mrs. Galina (she was to give us passes to the reserve), and with the “Vechnij Strannik” camping in Maralnik-1 and by some miracle they all confirmed everything could be postponed for one day! We were even luckier as a driver of the second car (first took us from Barnaul to GA, and the second from GA to Maralnik-1) had an extra day to relax with us at the “Victoria- village” waiting for my backpack to come☺!
On making 180 km we stopped by the canteen in Byisk, which was still alive from the Soviet period I guess (most probably all the drivers bring passengers there as previous year we had been brought to the very same canteen). We ate our fill with rather good food under very reasonable, almost kommunists’ prices, changed the car, and at 1 pm arrived to “Victoria-Village”.
As like as not, it was a nice option, as we were all really tired after full working week, out of sleep night flight, and stress in the airport, so we truly needed some rest. Anja and Anton offered themselves as volunteers for being on duty and baked awesome pancakes for the tea☺ After tasting them we had enough time to separate grocery for “taking with us” and for “delivery to cordon”. It turned out to be 6 kg for a men and 4 kg for a women. (By the way next time preparing food for hiking route I will take more meal and less sweets☺) In addition to grocery guys had mutual out fit like ropes, tent, ax, saw, ect.). Having all necessary things done, with a great pleasure we went to a sauna, made by Dima for us at the camping. After that had dinner of extremely delicious traditional food in the local café, we spent 1000 rubles for everybody having our stomachs fully satisfied! And finally, keeping on dreaming about the coming trip we drifted off in the cozy wooden cottages of Victoria-Village…
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Day 2nd, 16.07.17, Sunday.
As time to get up had not been settled due to time uncertainty of my backpack to come, everyone could wake up as they desired, enjoying sleeping in the fresh mountain air☺ Time after breakfast was used for idle talkings, parajoga lessons (me and Anja do some healthy lifestyle practice, named “parajoga”, kind of gymnastics combined with joga, but free of any philosophy) and organizational questions. We even got time to get sunburn☺. At 3.30 pm we were already waiting my backpack at Chujskiy highway, and as we got it, started for Tungur immediately. (By the way I must say for those who might have the same problem with a luggage- in order to get it you must have on you a luggage coupon, given to you at the airport of departure, papers given in the airport of arrival are not enough, I was really lucky to find that coupon)☺.
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Aside of all I should say few words about the road. I definitely didn’t put on the marks where it was ok and where so-so, but till Ust-Koksa it may be accepted as “road”. There is fairly good and not expensive café “Mesto vstrechi”, right before the turn from Chujskiy highway to Ust-Kan. We didn’t stop at all the fairs at passes, decided to leave it for the way back as nothing could be taken with us to the mountains☺. At about 11.30 pm we were at Ust-Koksa and got our passes in a house of the reserves’ worker Mrs. Galina (the cost was 150 rubles per night for one person, we had 3 nights). I must say special thanks to this wonderful woman, cause from the very beginning when I had told her we would have come for the passes Saturday night she had perceived it normally, and after, when I told her we gonna be one day later again said “no problem at all”! And was waiting for us at night! This is how do people work in out-of-the-way place! In Saint-Petersburg in this case I would either pay extra or would be sent far and away, at least till Monday morning, I suppose☺ It took us not more then 10 minutes to get passes, we thanked Galina and returned to our “highway”☺
The road became much worse, from time to time reminding me teeth-crusher, and as much close we got to Multa, as more it were reminding…. It was our blessing we were only 7 + a driver in the car, so we’d got enough space to stretch legs, sit comfortably and even have short naps… Finally at 1.30 am we arrived to “Vechnij strannik” camping at Maralnik-1. We were met by an extremely hospitable owner Raisa, leaded us to our cottage. There was only one huge bench-couch about 5 meters long, and a wood-stove. The stove have been decided to be useless at half past one, and after tasting unbelievably delicious local milk, that had been brought for us by Raisa in advance, we jumped into our sleeping bags and went out like a light.
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Day 3d, 17.07.17, Monday. Passed 9.4 km.
In the morning we were woken up by camping hubbub and tourists getting ready to start. We ate extremely tasty local sour-cream and local cottage cheese from local cows, organized for us by Raisa. Me and Maksim decided that such a lovely morning must be continued with swimming in Multa river, and we immediately brought this decision into life, nevertheless water temperature was not over 5-7 degrees definitely… But it worth doing, we were dramatically cheered up and got into absolutely positive mood☺ Hardly did we pick up all our stuff, we easily left at 9.40 am, as first day was not supposed to be any tough.
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It appeared that to Multinskie lakes there was a way on the right side of Multa, which saved us 1-2 hours of walking. The whole way to our todays’ campsite at Kujguk river took us 5 passages by 50 minutes each, so far at 3.30 pm we already were at the clearing in the woods next to gamekeeper house. Last 2 passages we were walking up-stream Kujguk right side.
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The average walking scheme was 50 minutes walking – 10 minutes brake. At each and every brake man on duty handed out some snacks like dried apricots, prunes, nuts and biscuits. Generally we were tracking quit steadily, out of any serious delays.
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First rest
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First wade
I must say that right after crossing Kujguk (by the way we crossed it without stringing any ropes, only Nadjas’ and Anjas’ backpacks were carried by guys, just in case) there was a rest area.
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We didn’t really liked it, so went forward for another half an hour and found lovely clearing in the woods next to gamekeepers’ house.
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Dinner and free time made us feel relaxed. It was steel woodland, that’s why pretty enough of woods were around. From time to time little rain were going to start. Me and Anja made our parajoga lesson making attempt to attract other members, then we tried to swim at Kujguk, but the water was so cold, that we couldn’t feel our toes in 30 seconds already... After that we had a supper with a liqueur of Rhodiola rosea made by Maksim, (we had 10 grams of spirits per person per day). Maksim since that was appointed for its’ preparation and had been perfectly managing it through the whole route changing the amount of Rhodiola or period of explosion, so that every day we had different tastes of liqueur☺. At 10 pm we went to bed.
Apparently I want to say about that first night. I had got a new tent, Red Fox Solo XC, which had never been used before, so no instructions had been given. The tent was very good, easily assembled by one person in 3 minutes, single, but out of backpacks it could contain double. And it turned out that a tent was TOTALLY hermetic. Being scared of rain I closed all ventilation valves. I woke up midnight feeling extremely bad having no ideas why. Not being cold, but out of my breath and not even being able to bring it back to normal!!! Felt dizzy, and got scared… After 10 minutes I eventually understood that I needed to open zips and get out of the tent to the fresh air. I guess there was just a lack of the oxygen in the tent. I had to get out of it, hang out round the camp for at least 10 minutes (lovely occupation during the night I must confess☺), open the valves and ventilate the tent and only after that finally I could fall asleep again… After that I had never even been thinking about closing the valves…

Day #4, 18.07.2017, Tuesday. 20.7 km passed
We woke up at six. Me and Dima were on duty, so we made breakfast and at 7.45 am started travelling light to Nizne-Multinskoe lake. The weather was awesome, so within 40 minutes we were at the lake.
ИзображениеOn having enough pictures done we forwarded to Shumi that took us exactly an hour.
ИзображениеThe weather being lovely in the morning had turned out to become nasty by the time we got to Shumi. We just had managed to make few pictures as it started raining. But the weather is rapidly changing in the mountains, so as we got back to Nizne-Multinskoe it was already sun shining and those who wanted (actually everybody accept Nadja and Anja) freshed up/went swimming under soft Altai sun☺.
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On the way back to our campsite we’d met my colleagues- “papajogi” from Saint-Petersburg – that really make me think this world is so tiny!!!! They had their own “grass” route through Altai.
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It was extremely unexpected and pleasant to met friends so far away from home, especially assuming that if we had passed that place just 10 minutes after or had chosen slightly different trail we wouldn’t have met…. Anyhow, we told them “goodbye” and kept on walking to our campsite, had come there at 1 am, and after lunch at 2.40 pm moved forward r. Kujguk.
On the way there the trail splited couple times and once Anton S. and Anja had chosen the wrong turn. The same time Anton I. was walking the first one, but on earflaps, so we couldn’t have stopped him just yelling☺ Dima had to run for him first to make him stop and then tried to find Anton and Anja. We were lucky they hadn’t walked far away. After that we decided to keep the group within visible limits☺
At about 6 pm we were at the campsite nearby Kujguk waterfall. Due to our late coming there was not so many space for tents, but finally we found at least one campfire place being free.
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There were plenty of woods around, so we easily made dinner, ate and even made our joga lessons☺ Dima helped me glue my Jack Wolfskin shoes, that had stared to torn. It was a big surprise for me as it was their third trip only (first was GR-20 at Corsika and Altai last year). In the evening a wind got very high so we got scared tent would be torn and had to pick it up. After dinner I made an unsuccessful attempt to get to a waterfall walking by right side of the trial up to the fall. The brushes around were so strong that I couldn’t have passed through, especially wearing Quechue’s slippers (Jack Wolfskin being repaired)☺, so I came back empty-handed. 9.30 pm we went to sleep.

Day 5th, 19.07.17. Wednesday. 14.8 km passed
We woke up at 6 am, but spent too much time on picking up the camp, and kicked off 8.40 am only. In 20-30 minutes we’d already been at Kujguk waterfall. Waterfall is really beautiful, especially on the sky becoming cloudy.
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Somehow looks like bridal veil☺ Then we stopped by Kujguk lake, as it worth observing as well, and the same time got dressed, cause it had started raining and becoming really chilly☺ The lake was bypassed by the left side. It took us 3 hours to get up to Kujguk pass, but already under raining cats and dogs and horrible ice-cold wind…
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The only thing that made me happy were my totally wet trousers that got dry within 15 minutes on this wind (when rain stopped for a while) in order to become totally wet again in another 5 minutes…☺ The trail is very clear, impossible to get lost. That day new style for trailing has been invented by me and Anja – non-stop talking☺ We’ve started from mutual friends and finished with movies and books.. On talking you don’t feel yourself so much exhausted and invert your mind to something different then ice-cold wind, scratching your legs..:)
We rose up to the pass at 12 am, meeting there the group that was going ahead of us, containing mostly of girls. They were going down to Akchan lake. We had to wait up at the pass for about 20 minutes while they were going down and lifting their backpacks down. It was enough time for us to get completely frozen, as weather had become really awful. Unfortunately I figured out that had forgotten my warm gloves (although the list of things to be taken with had been written by me). I could have barely felt my hands… Dima took a pity on me and allowed to warm up them in his stomach – this way hands get back to life easy and fast, and very pleasantly also, but most probably for only one side☺))
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While we were waiting the sky was darkening almost to blackness, wind enforced significantly. Dima told us that we obviously would not be able to pass Surovij and that it didn’t made any sense even to try to go there. He said we would go down to Akchan lake and follow Akchan river, till the forest area, trying to find suitable campsite. The way down from Kujguk wasn’t that hard, we got down with ropes about 5 m, and then had our backpacks down the same way.
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After ropes it was a steep slope scree under horrible rain, blowing away wind and hail so that we could have experienced all the positives that might happen with tourists in the mountains☺ We put on ourselves everything we could have….
About the route: before Akchan lake the trail goes to the left and follows the river Akchan. After 2 walking periods we made a stop to prepare hot soup (we really needed something hot to be placed to out stomachs, bravo rain had stopped for a little). At about 3 pm continued tracking through the river stream, met our “girls” that had landed on a nice campsite right next to river bank and! told us it was another nice campsite at about 1 hour walking, and finally at 6 pm got to that “nice site”. It was quit nice really if it were not for dozens of cow droppings making us permanently watch where to step on☺ Thus in between campsite and river it turned out to be a lot of thyme, and so as Tosha and Anja were on duty we got really flavored tea☺
Just had our tents been set up, thunderstorm began. It appeared zips of my tent couldn’t have suffered it and started to leak a bit… Only after half an hour we were able to get out of tents. I’d lubricated zips with lipstick – couldn’t have invent something more original☺ There was a fireplace on the campsite, woods were presented (wet, but it didn’t matter) and we tightened the tent that gave us at least some refuge. Attempts to make things dry were useless, so on having dinner at about 10 pm we went to sleep.
At night it was also raining, but not so horribly. By the way at midnight I woke up as some insect had been trying to get into my eye… I had my sleeping bag fully closed, so could have barely moved out my hands… it took me some time to weak the strings and unzip, and feeling of Something trying to get inside… it was awful☺)) It didn’t make any sense to cry- nobody would save me, and waking up the whole camp was not really good plan☺)) It was quit dramatic experience – me personally hate all the insects, and after that I carefully scanned tent for them before sleeping and had never tighten sleeping bag..

Day #6, Thursday, 20.07.17 18.4 km passed
We woke up at 6.30, had breakfast, picked up a camp and went on our journey, trying to find way round. We had been walking down Akchan river for about 40 minutes before we met herder’s house and quit lovely glade in front of it. Almost reasonable place for campsite, but distanced from the water. Inside the house was quit dirty, I wouldn’t advice to stay there, but for bad weather rescue it could be nice.
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At about 10 am we noticed lovely waterfall on the opposite side of Akchan. We kept on following the left side of the river, actually moving to the deep left from the left side going deeper and deeper to the forest line.
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In an hour it turned out to be the wrong way as pass through Akchan was just a bit after the waterfall, so we had to come back. At 12 am we were at the wade. Not really tough one, but water made our foots totally frozen within half a minute. Guys helped girls, bypassing rucksacks. It had been each one of us personal choice to wade wearing boots, still being wet after previous rainy day, or barefoot. The stream was not really heavy, didn’t blow away.
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After the wade the trail goes up, welcoming us with quit lingering way up (2 walking periods), and on passing by several cow herds at about 1.30 pm we were up to the hill with another herders house.
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Herders lucky were there, and explained us directly where the pass was.
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Thanking them we went on up another hill… At 3 pm finally we were at the pass. Absolutely magnificent few to Kirgiz valley had (have?) opened from there.
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Both lakes – Big and Small Kirgiz could have been observed perfectly on the right side of the hill, separating the valley. Far away in front of us is Kuragan river, but we still can’t see it. Not a trace of a pass down were we able to visualise...
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Guys made a decision to overpass the hill from the right side (no trial was visible neither from the left side neither from the right). Herders told us there were trails from both sides… Passed residual mountains keeping them on the left.
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At 4.30 we made a stop for preparing soup.
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Frankly speaking it was the only one place through the whole route full of mosquitoes. Not even mosquitos, but some tiny insects, always trying to get into one’s eyes…
After residual mountains the trail went through rock river and then totally disappeared.. Couple times we waded Kirgiz, couple times were forcing our way through fir brushes, and forcing is the basic term here! The trail was appearing/disappearing… At about 6.30 pm we made a stop on the left side of Kirgiz, Dima went to search for the trail…
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On coming back in half an hour he told us that there was a trail, but if it came down to Kuragan was not clear at all… So we decided to go on, waded Kirgiz once again even wanted to encamp right under the cedars. But the place was totally uneven, so I offered to walk ahead at least a little bit. Couple times we’d met herder’s hacks on the trees, that encouraged us that we followed the right direction.
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7.30 pm descended a bit we came out to the loveliest clearing in the woods with hunter’s house. Among the cedars, next to the steam, with a lot of even space for tents, with just grate fireplace, plenty of woods ready – it was just a gift for almost exhausted group, that had started devastating… In the hunter’s house there were most probably sleeping bags, hooked to the ceiling, a stove and a bench. Looked like it was only winter house, nobody coming there during summer time. So we encamped and had a dinner.
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The sky cleared completely, so was star-spangled, although we had no more power to have a look at them.. Maxim was the only one who found a solution to this problem- that day he was sleeping with his head out of the tent to be able to admire night stars…

Day 7th, 21.07.17 Friday 16.5 km passed
Dima woke up at 5 am and run ahead to search for the trail. Unfortunately it turned out that the trail didn’t lead to anywhere, the was no way down to Kuragan… That meant we had to come back to residual mountains, cross them and go to the opposite (left) side of the hill, again trying to find the trail… Carnival goes on! So done, woken up 6.30 am at 8.40 am we started. Within the first walking period we came back to the place which from Dima had run for searching, with the second – got back to residual mountains, and overpassing them walked left from the hill. On the way I’ve (I’d?) noticed a snake, sharply vanished into the brushes… We were keeping on going down, still found no trail…
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In about half and hour after passing residual mountains it was a very lovely clearing, if not to stray as we had done, it should be the place for camping. With enough even space for tents, fireplace, woods and stream nearby. After the clearing the way was horrible – either we were forcing the underbrush, either pushing through windfall… Finally waded Kirgiz again, we went by it’s left bank to it’s left confluent and lost almost found trail again… As like as not it is crossing Kirgiz where confluent is falling into.
Suddenly right nearby (feels like 50-100 meters away) distinct barking/howling had been heard, which definitely hadn’t belonged to a dog. We got really scared as there were no trail and we couldn’t have run away fast…. We’d started to produce as much noise as it was possible. Anja had a whistle on her rucksack, and I swore to myself on coming back I would learn whistling☺ After all we didn’t get who had been making those sounds, but later gamekeeper in the reserve told us it had been a roe deer.
Finally at about 1 pm we’d found the trail along Kirgiz bank, couple time waded it.
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Last wade through Kirgiz
On one of the wades Anja almost fell down to the stream thanks Dima insuring her got to grab her☺ In the end we got the trail that lead down to Kuragan, distinct, no how to be lost. Quit steeply descending, so we are already at the forest area.
On the way down utterly sublime view to seething beneath Kirgiz and Kuragan valley had opened to us.
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The weather was just splendid, the sky - absolutely pure, wished to flap hands and fly….
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But we needed just to go down by feet☺ Along the trail there was plenty of thyme, the plants being strong and mighty up to 80 cm tall. I was just walking and persuading myself I still wouldn’t be able to collect all of them, but plants were just getting into my hands…
By the way on the trail we’d seen roe deer leg – definitely a bear hadn’t finished his meal☺
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3.30 pm we were finally at Kuragan. On one of the Kirgiz arm we made a stop with swimming. After all thrilling we needed to be freshed up, even more so the sun was shining brightly and softly. Personally I sank into a “cup” nearby the bridge through Kirgiz 3 times, as it was a deepening there, that allowed to lay down into the water, but not just being sprinkled☺
Having something to eat we went on and at 6 pm got to the campsite on confluence of Kuragan and Jeshtu, described at Alexander Nechaev’s report. The bridge through Jeshtu in brand new one, so we crossed it easely. About one walking period before campsite we passed though a glade full of chanterelles, although we had already gathered a lot of mushrooms we couldn’t have helped picking them… So for the dinner we’d got different dishes you might have chosen which one you’d prefer more☺
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The campsite itself is really nice, plenty of even space for tents, fireplace, woods, even a table with branches, so we had a dinner as “white people”☺ Jeshtu itself is much more quite in compare to full-flowing Kuragan, so we could have swam again and washed clothes easily.
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Kuragan fascinates and makes you spellbound. Staying at the bank and watching its mighty seething flow – and you feel you observe eternity or Nature itself, with it’s insuperability, uncompromisingness and eternity. I don’t know the speed of the stream, but is really fast☺ 10 pm we went to sleep. Night time sky had cleared totally so those who still had some power left could have enjoyed stars and chancellors…

Day 8th, 22.07.17, Saturday. 8.9 km passed
Woke up 6.30 am, 9.00 am started. We followed direction to the cordon, the trail was clear, but from time to time totally rutted. Occasionally we faced a group from Kirovsk, coming from Talmen lake. But with gamekeeper from reserve and horse for stuff carrying☺
Closer to the reserve it got clear the group was almost exhausted. And an idea this very day to add to our backpacks another 4-6 kg of grocery, waiting for us at the cordon, was not making anybody happy. But we decided to discuss it all on arriving to cordon.
That day one of the rest-stops was at the glade next to Osinovka mouth of the river, equipped with a telephone! On the tree trunk just fixed a telephone device having written on it “Call to your mam”! The first idea coming to you mind when you see it- is it real??? Somebody must have been really crazy, but not lazy to bring it there☺
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On the way there was plenty of orange-cap mushrooms, theoretically forbidden to be picked up, as gathering mushrooms and barriers is prohibited in the reserve. Dima told us gamekeepers might check our backpacks, so I was constantly trying to be blind noticing them☺ It was an addition to mushrooms - ticks, as Dima took off a new little one. As his was going first I believe he collected them all.
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At 1.30 pm we were at the reserve’s cordon at the confluence of Kazaniha and Kuragan. Bridge was brand new, and reserve itself looked like just had been built. We put stamps to our passes, arranged sauna (300 rubles per person) and encamped.
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Then had a council, Dima told us that in case we had followed the same rhythm we would have got to Kucherlinskoe lake within 3 days. So we settled that Anja, Anton S and Nadja after this half a day rest would be able to get to Kucherla, out of where they would easily go down to Tungur, and the rest of the group would go on through Kara-Turek to Ak-kem as it had been planned. But a rest at least for this half of they day was truly needed. Anja’s foots and toes were totally wrapped, group was exhausted, and we had got our grocery, that meant couple extra kilos to our rucksacks… So must have had a break..
Gamekeeper meanwhile stoked a stove, guys first went to sauna, girls followed. Sauna always makes people relaxed unnerved and soft, so we were, attaining pacification and peace… Few days before we arrived to cordon they had finished constructing a guest house - ail over there, that most probably will be offered to passing by tourists for a certain payment. It has 5 branches, but I guess 7-8 persons can stay there easily as branches are quit big and wide, with wooden table in the middle.
One may sit down nearby this ail and look to the streaming Kazaniha like in the cinema. The picture is never repeated, each moment is unique. All other sounds are muffled by the mighty river, so one could remain united amidst nature or himself as she liked… Or become a part of the universe... Everything she doesn’t need is taken by the river; everything she needs is coming of itself…
In the evening we had a dinner (with mushrooms☺) and fell asleep about 9.30 pm.

Day 9th, 23.07.17, Sunday. 15.8 km passed
Woke up at 6 am, 8 pm we stared. Passed bridge through Kuragan (upper Kazaniha confluence named Ioldo).
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The trail following reserve’s line goes up long (2 walking periods by one hour each). Gamekeeper warned us this year there are a lot of bears.. traces on the trail were confirming his words- we were definitely following a she-bear with bear cub….That’s my we were again making as much noise as we could, nevertheless met roe deer, chewing grass… Didn’t managed to make a picture – she ran away. After crossing Bachiniha river mountain river has started.
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Since we have left reserve we met 2 groups: first was very weird, 3 men, out of passes, walking through reserve territory “ we are just passing by…”, and mostly teens group from Biysk, lead by extremely energetic women, that we really liked. She advised us with a way to Ioldo pass and ran to reserve, where they also had their grocery☺
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On one of the stops Anton S. went to fresh up in Left Ioldo and sank his mobile. The fluency is so streaming there were no chances. He was pity not for the phone itself, but for all the pictured on it… We decided that was our gift to Altai and went on through mountain river.
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At about 3 pm made a stop with hot soup as supposed to come closer to Ioldo circus the weather being fine enough. After a stop went on, mountain river soon finished and the trail went by small stream. The trail itself wasn’t really hard, but tough one, as it was permanently broking into the stream. At about 5 pm we were at the campsite at streams’ loop, but decided to go on a bit further and closer to pass circus. At 6 pm, after wading the stream we found suitable place for camping, not the best one, but at least.
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Hardly had we encamped, when it started raining. So we made a vast dinner on the gas-jet as there no woods around. On our right hand it was an extremely splendid waterfall, but unfortunately we were not able to enjoy it as rain enforced. So far exhausted and satisfied we fell asleep.

Day 10th, 24.07.17, Monday. 14.7 km passed
Woke up 6 am, all around being frozen, hoar-frosted, white… It had been frost night time.
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The sun appeared on the glade only by 8 am, and it became really warmer. 8.15 started to Ioldo pass, in about 15-20 minutes met a campsite on the stream bank. Quit weird campsite - totally made of stones – stone branches, stone table, stone sleeping place…
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The way up to the pass the sun was shining, so we warmed enough raise being quit steep. As closer to the top of the pass as more marmot holes were met, one marmot even let us take a picture of him☺
img]http://5files.ru/storage/2017/12/p24_e163e1.jpg[/img]
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10.40 we were at the top of the pass. Utterly sublime view of Katunskiy range had opened… On the pass there was a small lake, on having enough time I would even swim there☺
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Making enough pictures, by hard snow we forwarded to Ioldo-Ajri West pass, 11.30 am we have been already there.
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Actually if somebody had some extra time she might stay at Ioldo-Ajri West for the night (but only 2 tents, no more space) and met there the sunset and sunrise. It is possible as there are few “stone walls” there, protecting tents from the wind. It must be just unbelievable I think.
While the group was fascinating magnificent views and powerful presence of the mountains, Dima ran ahead to check to best way to go down, so we started slightly turning to the left. Glacier slope was not that tough, not really slipping, ice mixed with moraine.
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There were fissures, but not reasonable, easy to be noticed. 1 pm landed from ice to mountain river, made a lunch, 2 pm started to descend to Darashkol’ lake. Soon we could see it, among the ring of the mountains...
As we were descending flora was changing – exuberant vegetation started from grass and brushes closer to the lake was followed by conifers. Colours used to be variations of white-grey-black changed to almost full rainbow.
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3 pm we got to upper waterfalls of Ioldo-Ajri, flowing into Darashkol’. Views are unbelievable, splendid, awesome… We barely were able to left the waterfall made tones of pictures… Seething flow rushing beneath attracts attention for hours… Anton I. on making pictures made one more gift to Altai – sank his sunglasses to waterfall☺ Well, actually it was a good sign, when have something left that means you will come back☺
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View back to the glatcher from waterfalls
A bit beneath Ioldo-Ajri is joined with a second left stream, creating on mighty flow. You can see the difference between streams as one is dirty, troubled, and second is pure like an eye drop… Again met marmot☺
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It seemed like the lake and a campsite on its bank were just nearby, half an hour away (we were following Darashkol’ right side), but is was an illusion. As closer to the lake we approaching as more high and hardly overpassed became mountain river. From time to time we were even separating- everyone had chosen his own way – upper or lower, then joined al together again.
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Everyone put dozens of blacks to his legs that day. The way seemed to be endless. Couple times we had to take off backpacks in order to be able to get down through huge stones… It was pure rock-climbing! On one place about 20 minutes before campsite there were ropes, about 5 meters.
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Finally mountain river was finishing and mixing with conifers.
7.30 pm we were at the campsite, frankly speaking not enough space for tents as all good places had already been reserved. We even wanted to land close to helicopter square (they said it would come 8 am, so we would be able to leave before), but afterwards found good campsite slightly aside on the lake’s bank.
I must say few words about helicopter and workers at the lake. Helicopter must have come and bring materials for either a house or a recreation center right on the Darashkol’s bank. Huge construction, making a lot of gossips. Who had allowed starting construction just at the lake’s bank we didn’t found out. But the house under construction was very big, with and a lot of workers around, still working 8 pm – somebody definitely wanted to finish this all within a season…
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So far we encamped, swam (water was awful +1 I suppose), washed, made a dinner. And time for meditation came up. The lake surface was incredibly pure; mountains reflected in the lake, the sky was absolutely pure…no wasted sounds around, peace and calm… You need to be there to feel it. I guess everybody remembered that evening, as a moment from fairy tale in which was lucky to appear…
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My “extra” for the route was 5-star metaxa, and I was sure it was the right moment to take it out. So sitting round the fire (there were woods actually there, not much, but were), looking to primeval beauty of the lake, tasting cognac we couldn’t feel more then to heaven… Dima, who did not even taste cognac, was so impressed by surrounding that decided to sleep on the open air, admiring and joining the stars… The night must have been star-spangled as there was no single cloud in the sky… Magic history at the mountain lake…
Day 11th, 25.07.17, Tuesday. 15.6 km passed
6 am the sky still had been absolutely pure, lake – absolutely calm, air – absolutely fresh… 8.20 helicopter arrived and waving we started off to Kucherla lake.
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Right after the campsite there was a wade, and you can’t pass it keeping you boots dry. So far some of us decided just to pass legs still being wet, some took Dima’s rubber boots. The whole trail down to Kurerla wades was very clear, wide, but mud way. Semi mountain river, semi through the forest. Not really tough one, but really exhausting… One step down, two up, fallen trees, mud, that can’t be overpassed…
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12.30 pm we were at the Kacherla wades. Most of the wades are easily passed one by one (at least this time of the year), but the mail trunk we had to wade by following red marks by groups of 5 (2 girls+3 boys) cause fluency was so rapid that girls could have been flown away.
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After wades we made a lunch and tried to get a little bit dry (we have been so deeply absorbed into hiking life already that almost nobody kicked off boot on wades, that’s why we squeezed out socks at least). 2 pm we went ahead Kucherlinskoe lake by its’ right side. The trial was distinct, just following the lakes’ bank. Quit even, no serious up and down, but still extremely tiring - 2 steps up, 3 down, fallen trees…
Through the bank nice campsites appeared from time to time, one remembered me more then others – it was big enough, and I suppose inhabited long, as even stone stove had been made. Me and Dima went a bit ahead so had some time to stay there and admire surroundings, while were waiting for the others to come…
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At about 4 pm we decided to swim, get freshed a bit and make up for energy. The water was definitely freshing! By the way right next to the place where we’ve been swimming there was a snake lying, and totally ignoring Dimas’ attempts to make her go away.. So we had to overpass her…
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After swimming group stretch a lot – everyone was walking his speed. Dima ran ahead in order to book a campsite. At 6 pm we gathered all together near the bridge through Kucherla. Next to the bridge all sites were occupied, so not crossing the bridge we encamped at the right side of the hill.
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There was no fireplace around so we had to get one about half a kilometer down-stream Kucherla. Plenty of woods. We just managed to prepare dinner and to discuss future plans. It turned out that Nadja was still full of energy and seemed to endure following route. So far only Anja and Anton would stay at Kucherlinskoe lake, and all the rest go on through Kara-Turek pass. Quickly we shared grocery left and were just on time to get into the tents before rain, actually a thunderstorm, began.

Day 12th, 26.07.17, Wednesday. 24.1 km passed
We woke up 6 am and quickly picked up. It was going to be an extremely tough day ahead, as in order to have at least one day free at Ak-Kem lake we needed to make 2 days in one: rise up to “Kedrovie opushki” and then pass Kara-Turek and go down to Ak-Kem making over 1300 meters up and over 1000 meters down. Anton S. had woken up even earlier to prepare a breakfast for us (although could have slept), that’s why 7.30 saying good buy to Anja (Anton saw us off till crossway Tungur/Kara-Turek) we kicked off.
The trail starts with quit sophisticated way up, and constantly goes up and up.
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Once we lost the trail but in about 15 minutes faced with a cliff understood our mistake and came back. At about 11 am we were at lovely glade with direct view to Tungur, so it was possible to make a phone call. So we phoned to relatives (take into attention only MTS and Beeline work there) and went ahead.
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Trail still was going up, somewhere there the was a hole of king-marmot☺
Separetely I must confess in one really stupid thing I’ve done that day in order to protect you from doing the same. Forecasting tremendously hard day I put on knee pads – they must help me! After 3-4 hours of going up I felt like there were plumbum weights tied to me legs so I was barely able to move them. I felt myself still having energy, but not being able to move legs… 1 pm we reached “Kedrovie opushki”, but didn’t make a lunch there, as supposed to have it on the plateau up to Kara-Turek before descending. And then we started to clime up to Kara-Turek… Frankly speaking I was almost ready to say to the group to go on without me, encamp on the slope and catch them up the next day, cause I almost struggled for every step. And only at the second rest on the way up to Kara-Turek I got to take knee pads off! It appeared (was it only for my legs so, or for any, I still don’t know) that they tied tightly, pressed my legs on the way up. As soon as I took them off it became much more better, but too much affords had been done already, I couldn’t have revived myself fast… Basically it was for the group to go ahead, I was remaining behind, then catching them up on them having rest, passing them non-stopping, remaining behind again…. I was going very slowly, but was going! Slowly slowly weights on my legs were losing kilos, I was reviving☺)
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I must say we were extermely lucky with a weather on arising that day. There was no rain, neither the sun was burning. It was ok to go in T-shirt. 3.30 pm on the tableland 100 meters before the top of the pass we were going to make a lunch. And here weather decided to show us who was the protagonist there. Thunderstorm began, rain-hail cloud set on us, covering the whole plateau. We just managed to get a tent and spread it above gas-jet and backpacks and hide inside. For half an hour we were waiting for this mess to be finished and 4.30 at its’ ending made a last leap to the top of Kara-Turek.
4.45 we were at the top. Within this 15 minutes (lucky we were at the mountains, where weather can change in a moment!) the sky became absolutely clear and we faced Beluha in all her glory, majesty and beauty….
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I’m not even going to try to describe you the view that is opened from Kara-Turek, you just need to come there one day… Unbelivable feeling, It's like of being over the moon, but totally exhausted and exhilarated:)
Having mutual picture done in front of Beluha about 5.30 pm we started our way down (on descending I decided to put on my knee pads back☺) and at 8 pm finally reached Ak-Kem lake.
It was exteremly crowded at the lake – like on Nevsky prospect…. We had to go beyond border guard station as there were no free campsites before them. Fortunately we managed to land before the sunset. Quickly made a dinner on the gas-jet ( no fireplace free, neither no woods around). Nadja and all guys were brave enough to wash themselves in Ak-Kem. I was able just to admire them – nothing in this world would have made me to get into ice-cold water of Ak-Kem…
On the way to our campsite I’d noticed a banja from weather station being stoked, and decided to test my fortune running there to check if I could have used it…
It was about 1 km away from our campsite, so I came there in the dusk. Suddenly a naked men about 55-60 years old came towards me out of the banja:
-What are you doing here, darling? - I turned back as fast as I could
-Nothing, I just wanted to wash, but I see it is occupied...
-Or, don’t worry; there is enough space inside! Go right ahead, it will do you good!
Actually he didn’t need to put a lot of efforts on persuading me. It turned out that they were a group of 10 men and women, had just returned from Beluha after a successful climb, rented this banja for the whole night and the only possible way to get washed was joining them. So far without showing off I varnished inside.
One of the women gave me a wash-basin, showed where the hot water was and shared her light as there was no inside and I’d forgot to take mine. It it was really warm inside and I could have washed in hot water! Even wash my head! That was a magic, seriously… This all didn’t take me that long as I’d better had come back before darkness, so thanking these lovely people (who even refused to take money from me!) I ran back to our campsite almost in darkness but felling freshed, totally clean and almost bliss-inspired! Maxim listened to my story wanted to repeat it, but we swore him he wouldn’t be that successful☺
Guys had already made a hot tea, so drinking it we discusses all hardships and lucky moments of that lovely day and about 10.30 pm finally fell asleep as babies do☺

Day 13th, 27.07.17, Thursday. 14.9 km passed
It was totally unimportant what time we would get up that day, so everyone had a chance to sleep as long as she wanted☺ At about 10 am we finally slowly took our bodies out of the tents, slowly washed up, slowly had a breakfast, slowly drank tea… Then rapidly moved to a new place next to us as fireplace released☺
Everybody accept me were going to walk to Jarlu valley, I’d been there previous year so it made me no sense to come back.
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I preferred to go the small church, that was built on the trail to Beluha (even though I’d been their also). Agreeing to meet either at “Visotnic” camping either at our campsite 12.20 they started to Jarlu, and me about 1 pm to the church.
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I was really lucky – the was a service in the church. I’m not that religious person, but it was really something in listening those people, who had come so far away from civilization to pray for those who had left us… (Frankly speaking Dima came to Beluha a week after us again with a new group and met Fedor Konuhov there, and was walking up to the church with him – he went there to make a service as he was a priest also, I’d never known) By the way those people seemed to be not priests, but just common human beings, and that read and sang prayers so clearly, so understandably, so humanistic… I listen for some time, thinking about life, eternity, past and future…
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Then I went back to the campsite and fell asleep again☺ How great it was to sleep day time being tired physically, not mentally, and sleep at the fresh air at Beluha’s foot….
5 pm I woke up and went forward to “Visotnik” but met the group coming back. Only Anton I stayed at “Visotnik” waiting for the cakes they were longing for and that must have been ready in about an hour.
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About 6 pm we had a dinner (with cakes!!!), then Maxim decided also to walk to the church and me and Dima – to “Visotnik”.
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There I could have admired a cup of just made coffee, bought ½ of the bread, cost me 225 rubles (the most expensive ½ of the bread in my life I guess) as I really longed for a sandwich with butter and cheese in the morning and then went back. I could have made a phone call back home, but in order to do it we needed to wait till 9-10 pm (there is e tent close to Visotnik with access to Internet from 9 till 10 pm usually), then go back in darkness and I decided not to do that. We preferred to sit on the Ak-Kem bank and admire view to Beluha…
10 pm we were back to the camp, everybody was already sleeping, somebody has encamped 1 meter aside our tent but it was not important anymore…

Day 14th, 28.07.17, Friday. 32.8 km passed
That day we wanted to get to Tungur, so we woke up 6 am and 8 am kicked off, bidding farewell to Ak-kem lake and magic Beluha. There is almost nothing to be said about trail that day – good wide trail, almost descending (there was only one local rising). The whole way trail follows Ak-Kem fluence, it is impossible to get lost even if you want to. There is only one place – so called “trail of fools”, where you can loose the trail. For this not to happen you need right after “pressures” – narrow stony talus- not to miss clear turn up left above, that is opposite to memorial plate.
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We were going really fast, only the last 3 km were plenty of black currant, once Dima took a pity on us and let us stop to fulfill our stomachs☺
About 4.30 we got to “3 birches”, where it was possible to get GAZ-66. We were spread along the route, Dima ran ahead in order to stop GAZ-66 if it would decide to leave as we hadn’t ordered it in advance. Dima was followed by me and Maxim, and we were only 3 minutes before “3 birches” as it started raining. First we thought we would manage to get there, but it was a mistake – we came there totally wet… In 10 seconds rain became a thunderstorm… So Altai told us “good buy” or on the opposite invited to the next route☺
There were even 2 GAZ-66 on “3 birches”, first one left as we arrived as it was ordered one and group of about 20 had already come. The next one said he would take us, but we needed to wait for about 1.5 hour, that definitely was not a problem. Cost 1 000 rubles per person. It really worth going! This journey can barely be forgotten! The same time you feel mighty of this vehicle, and so scared to get out of it!!!
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Couple times engine began to boil, but it didn’t bother our driver at all, he just opened engine and regulated it manually☺ We crossed Kucherla river by the new bridge (the old one could have been seen just right aside), entered Kucherla village and there changed our GAZ-66 to regular Toyota, which drove us to “Green House” in Tungur. The whole way took us about 1,5 hours.
It appeared Anja and Anton had already been there, encamped, as we had ail booked only for a day after (within a first plan it must have taken us 2 days to get back from Ak-Kem). So we encamped as well, cooked dinner from the rest of grocery and I allowed myself to go to take a shower in “Uch-Sumer”. Hot shower was just a magic after almost 2 weeks journey, but magic was quit specific, as there were no light there, and complete darkness and raining cats and dogs outside☺)) I was thinking to get back to administrator in the entrance to that camping to find out how to turn on the light, but then decided that dirtiness would come out even in darkness☺
While I was washing guys ran to the nearest store, bought sweets and beer, so we could have enjoyed sitting next to fireplace (that is really big and tented in “Green House”, it was really important as it didn’t stop raining…) and finally relaxing☺
Последний раз редактировалось sfagaspb 05.04.2018 16:28, всего редактировалось 52 раза.

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Miha
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Re: From Maralnik-1 to Beluha

Сообщение Miha » 21.12.2017 18:00

very intresting, but no transleit nihera!
Кю!

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komandor
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Re: From Maralnik-1 to Beluha

Сообщение komandor » 21.12.2017 18:14

Примерно так....машинный перевод...суть понятна :arrow: :mrgreen:
Я не имею дело с пешим туризмом отчетов, сочиняя, что часто, таким образом, пожалуйста, быть снисходительным к моему “наблюдению пытаются” ☺, я собираюсь попытаться описать нашу 2-недельную поездку, которые были самыми твердыми и в то же время самыми интересными для меня среди всех поездок, которые я когда-либо совершал.
Ну, я предполагаю, что должен начать с идеи. В последний раз (2016-й) год, я посетил Алтайские горы впервые, обнаружил совершенно новый мир для меня, был полностью очарован и немедленно влюбился в него (как почти все, кто приезжает туда, я предполагаю). При возвращении я понял, что был уже захватывающим в Алтай, имел острое желание возвратить, передать его еще раз, но другим маршрутом. Чтобы избежать регулярного следа к Beluha, который является самым популярным, я должен был изменить подход. До сих пор поездка в озера Multinskie могла стать привлекательным альтернативным маршрутом, означая, что я никогда не был там. Но просто получение к Multinskie не сложное вообще, и это заставило меня начать искать направление, чтобы следовать за ними. Удачный почти все могло быть найдено в Интернете, я тоже, узнал, что сообщение Нечаева Александреса об отслеживании пытается добраться от Мультинского до Ak-Kem и Beluha через r. Kujguk, r. Курэгэн и Кара-Турек проходят с небольшой группой 6 человек, которые почти добились успеха. В тот момент стало абсолютно ясно, где я хочу пойти. Проходы, озера, заброшенные пути, резервируют – и, наконец, вход в Beluha … Просто точно, что я хотел! Все остальное было просто “техническими деталями”. Таким образом, в конечном счете после половины года приготовлений наша небольшая группа 7 (6 волонтеров + руководство) была готова пойти выделенный ☺.
Это был первый раз, когда я собирал группу один, и это определенно заставило меня волноваться много. Особенно означая, что я не познакомился лично с большинством участников, только через Интернет. Но мои страхи оказались бесполезными – все участники, оказалось, были соответствующими людьми, очарованными горами и пешим туризмом. Особая благодарность должна быть выражена нашему руководству – Дмитрий Лебедь, который убеждал и направлял нас в правильное направление. Но давайте сделаем шаг 1-м step☺Day, суббота, 15.07.17.
В субботу утром мы прибыли в аэропорт Барнаула, где группа собиралась (все мы шли с различными полетами, Аня и Тоша прибыли за день до этого, чтобы купить всю необходимую бакалею). Меня и Максима шел с UralAirlines, Антон Ай. приехал за час до нас с полетом S7. При прибытии оказалось, что самолет, с которым шли Максим и я, поймал пассажиров, являющихся поздним от предыдущих полетов, но не поймал багаж пассажира …. И самое раннее время, я видел бы свой рюкзак, было на следующий день только …, я был едва в состоянии переварить эти новости …, казалось, что эта ситуация оставлена очевидная для аэропорта Барнаула, и они даже получили специальных водителей, которые доставляют отложенный багаж через целую область. Мне обещали мой рюкзак, который будет доставлен любому месту, которое я указываю (даже на Maralnik-1) на следующий день (если это прибыло бы на следующий день ☺)). Как я мог едва полагать в рюкзак, прибывающий на расстоянии в 700 км из Барнаула “следующий день”, мы решили не рискнуть и переехать к Горно-Алтайску в Vicoria-деревню кемпинга, рекомендуемую нашим руководством, где к моему рюкзаку, который, как предполагают, прибыл «как можно скорее», когда мне обещали прекрасные женщины от ищущего багаж отдела.
Все это результаты заняли у нас много времени, таким образом, мы начали с Барнаула только около 10:00. Это было своего рода напряжение для меня – приключения в поездке, маршрут, даже не начинаемый все же, не были запланированы определенно, но все сделано, сделан для лучшего, таким образом, я просто расслабил ☺ В пути, мы прошли отелем «Tourist», где там отдых группы (Антон С, Аня и Нэдджа Б.) ждал нас со всей бакалеей, купленный в «Ленте» (по тому, как это, возможно, было сделано почти на 40% более дешевое в «Marija-Ра» как оказалось, поздно на).
По пути я связался с егерем запаса г-ном Козловым, разделив доставку бакалеи к кордону запаса для нас, reserve’os помощник г-жа Галина (она должна дать нам проходы в запас), и с «Vechnij Strannik», располагающимся лагерем в Maralnik-1 и! Бог благословил, они все подтвердили, что все могло бы быть отложено в течение одного дня! Мы были еще более удачливыми как водитель второго автомобиля (сначала взял нас от Барнаула до GA, и второе от GA до Maralnik-1) имел дополнительный день, чтобы расслабиться с нами в “деревне Виктории -”, ждущей моего рюкзака, чтобы прибыть ☺!
При создании 180 км мы зашли в столовую в Byisk, который был все еще жив с советского периода, который я предполагаю (по всей вероятности, все водители приносят пассажирам там как в предыдущем году, мы были приведены к той же самой столовой). Мы наелись с довольно хорошей едой под очень разумным, почти цены kommunist, изменили автомобиль, и в 13:00 прибыли в «Victoria-деревню».
Скорее всего, это был хороший выбор, когда мы были все действительно усталыми после целой рабочей недели из ночного полета сна и напряжения в аэропорту, таким образом, нам действительно был нужен некоторый отдых. Аня и Антон предложили себя как волонтеры для того, чтобы быть на дежурстве и испекли потрясающие блины для чая ☺ После дегустации их, у нас было достаточно времени, чтобы отделить бакалею для “взятия с нами” и для “доставки к шнуру.........................

и так далее...Изображение
Последний раз редактировалось komandor 21.12.2017 18:33, всего редактировалось 1 раз.
De omnibus dubitandum

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komandor
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Re: From Maralnik-1 to Beluha

Сообщение komandor » 21.12.2017 18:31

Miha писал(а):
21.12.2017 18:00
very intresting, but no transleit nihera!
Перевожу Миху собственноручно..
Очень интересно, но не переводится ни хера. :mrgreen:
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De omnibus dubitandum

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komandor
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Re: From Maralnik-1 to Beluha

Сообщение komandor » 21.12.2017 18:53

Dear sfagaspb, your message is very interesting. But write in Russian.
With appreciation, Командор.
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De omnibus dubitandum

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sfagaspb
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Re: From Maralnik-1 to Beluha

Сообщение sfagaspb » 21.12.2017 21:48

Я напишу, и на русском тоже, чуть позже:) и надеюсь с фотками:)

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Re: From Maralnik-1 to Beluha

Сообщение sfagaspb » 21.12.2017 21:49

Подскажите только, как фотки в отчет вставлять?

AWS
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Re: From Maralnik-1 to Beluha

Сообщение AWS » 21.12.2017 22:30


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Re: From Maralnik-1 to Beluha July 2017

Сообщение sfagaspb » 25.12.2017 3:41

Day 15th, 29.07.17, Saturday.
We woke up not that late, someone earlier, someone later. Pure fresh air. Silence, but alive silence, birds were singing. Katun, rushing it’s water right nearby could be heard. Slight fog among the road. Horses, peacefully eating grass on the fields… How to describe feelings of that morning? I barely can do it…
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Dima had found out Friday evening that there was a transfer Saturday morning to Gorno-Altaisk, as he needed to be there by Saturday’s evening. So far he and Nadja (she also preferred to spend a day in Gorno-Altaisk, rather then in Tungur) at 9 am were leaving from “Visotnik” camping. And the rest 5 of us stayed in Tungur for one more day to enjoy life and relax. On having our breakfast we went all together to “Visotnik” to bid them farewell. It was quit pity to do that, after so many days, spent together we almost bound to each other.. But life was going on, and so far went for honey to Tungur village.
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Passing central street and walking down the opposite from Katanda side we absorbed local spirit. Cows we walking down the streets, horses were eating grass on the glades… Local kids were running in a crowd to local Center of Culture, as that day circus had come to Tungur!
That was just a memory from “past life” – barefoot kids, hand-in-hand run to the Culture Center – for a holiday - the circus has come!!! How long ago it has been! How great it is at least somewhere kids still can go somewhere all together barefoot, but unbelievable happy! We actually also we thinking about attending circus☺
Following down the street we finally had found a house, where I had bought honey a year before. Masters we not in, so we sat down and relaxed, waiting for them. Then soon appeared and we bought very delicious honey cost 800 rubles per kilo, as far as I remember. Also bought some grasses, tea, few souvenirs. The way back came into a house, opposite to “Green House” – took extremely fresh and unbelievable tasty cream and cottage cheese. They promised to leave us several litters of milk after evening milking.
At the camping we moved to our ail that was already free and ready, and went to banja, that we had booked before.
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Banja after 2 weeks of journey really cleans, refreshes, relaxes, especially with beer☺ But we didn’t taste it that much as super-dinner of local treats was waiting for us at “Green House” café…
Lamian, dumplings, bloody sausage, stuffed mutton entrails and I don’t remember what else – just perfectly fitted local spirit made on local milk… We were barely able to eat everything that had been ordered, even taking into consideration ravenous appetite we had after 2 weeks “on diet”☺ Sausage guys just pushed into themselves, but we couldn’t have left all these thinks unfinished.. By there way for 5 of us we paid less then 2 000 rubles al together… I still keep on thinking they’ve made a mistake on calculating somewhere, it just impossible to be so cheap!!!
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After such a heavy meal we needed to walk a bit, so we went to the new bridge through Katun. This year they have started new bridge construction, but the old one is still in use, and has some “spirit of the mountains”. We set down on it, and were thinking maybe about eternity, maybe about past 2 weeks of hiking, maybe were making future plans, maybe something else… And that is not really critical about what exactly, but significant that there you are united with the surrounding, not opposing to it, but making some special union with this world, union of harmony and peace… you are part of this world, equal to it’s power and majesty…
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We came back to “Green House” – it seemed like it couldn’t have been even better – but it could! Tatjana (the owner of “Green House”) had guitar on her verandah, and let us take it. Maxim, hiding his talents all the way round, turned out to be a good singer. So we landed on branches, and looking to the sunset were listening to Tsoj, Virbor, Visotckiy and many others, which names I don’t know… That was the best way to finish our journey… It just couldn’t have been better…Изображение

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